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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the family completely shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small place securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary honour.